Talking Labels: Alexander Wang vs 3.1 Philip Lim Pre-Fall 2013

Pre-Fall 2013 is interesting.

Collectively, there are a few non-surprises. Lots of sombre tones and blacks, lots of leather and wools. There are also some eye openers, particularly in some color breakaways and prints.

The submissions from a couple of the Asian designers that are the current darlings in the West, also made me raise an eyebrow. Sometimes for good reasons, others because I just did not get it.

Take these two designers for example. Alexander Wang and Philip Lim.  A Parsons dropout, Wang is identified for his 'urban, nonchalant cool' looks or better known as "Model Off Duty". Philip Lim on the other hand, is known for his tailoring and smart and wearable designs.

Both are CFDA winners and it is fair to expect lots season after season.

So let's see. I am just going to pick looks that I like, and looks that made me go hmm.

3.1 Philip Lim

His inspiration this season: Bikers and their Molls.  Er, ok. 

The good -

I love a good dress, especially if it is in a nude color. Make it in buttery leather, and it is even better than cheesecake. I love this from him. Clean, impeccable with an edge, especially when partnered with Julia Roberts Pretty Woman Thigh High Boots from the Strip. A good girl can be bad at the same time.

The oversized jacket IS a little voluminous for the model, yes. What I do appreciate is the injection of a beautiful color in a season that is traditionally muted. Also, the printed detail on the sleeves adds yet another visual break from what could have been otherwise a single blob of blue. The leather patch skinny pant is a real move away from the sweetness Lim has been associated with but the edginess is keeps it young and modern.

Channeling Joan Jett and Suzi Quatro, this leather vest truly rocks. There is nothing worse than a leather vest that cuts away from the body, and this anything but. I also like the proportion of the vest when worn with the top and skirt as styled. There is cohesion in the entire ensemble, which works whether as separates or as a total look.

The Bad: 

Prints in Pre-Fall, great. These, not so great. I thought a designer is supposed to flatter the human form, not distort it. The leopard sweater disaster not only makes the model look huge, the color toning of the print gave her these white (wide) hips. The tonal error continues in the second look, and this time, not even leather can save the design.

I get it. Lim is known for his sweaters. But does any woman want to have a blue shrug sewn into a slouchy brown base? And then pair that with matchy matchy shorts with giant upturn cuffs. Perhaps Lim wanted his clients to lose their gender identity, but I suspect women would not be rushing to the stores to get this look.

The O.M.G:

For this section I will leave it to you to see for yourself and decide if this is a ALAMAK moment. I will however leave perhaps one or two words to express my...mmm...surprise.

Auntie Go to Office Much?

Good Print Gone Bad

Burberry Much? (But not in a good Chris Bailey way)

Alexander Wang

The Good:

If you are going to get a slate grey jacket, get this one. Sure it isn't slim and fitted but styled correctly, as shown above, the result is nothing short of gorg. The jacket skims right above the buttocks and if you aren't wearing a longer blouse or top inside, this length will give you some visual trickery as it cheats the eye into believing that you've had a butt lift and it also gives you a longer leg. Worn with a calf length pant that mimics the flare silhouette of the jacket, the outcome is completely modern, and it gives you the perfect opportunity to show off those expensive shoes. Masculinity is quite the theme for Pre-Fall and Wang has captured this without reducing women to a season of testosterone.

I am a little torn about this one.  On one hand I like the ombre effect on the shorts. The length above the knee is also flattering. Going grey top to bottom sends me to snoozeville. Having said that, I do like the androgynous quality of this look. It is almost like the girl just raided her guy or gay friend's closet and pulled together an easy stylish look. I think it is the effortless simplicity that is caught my eye. Urban chic comes to mind.

It is probably unintentional, and I can be justifiably accused of being geographical about it, but I equated the wrap skirt here as Asian-esque. Again probably unintended, but the leather waist band / belt reminds me of an obi belt. I like that a wrap skirt, like its big sister the wrap dress, is so versatile and can be worn with different separates and accessories to change its feel and perception. (See second and third pictures)

I have been fortunate to have worked with talented architects. We always try to balance out form and function, while also breaking the visual line. Wang successfully introduced these elements into this look. Sharp angular lines force the eye to dissect the body, and draw the attention away from areas you may want people to avoid. It is almost like a Star Wars Empire Officer's uniform: strict and utilitarian. If this is Wang's revision of a military look, sign me up. It is truly fashion forward.

You probably can guess by now which designer I am leaning towards. This does not diminish anyone's work. However, I do think that designers can have hits and misses in any one season. Perhaps also, some herrings are placed in the collection for press buzz. And if brand image is vital, then reworking staples like sweaters, regardless of whether the newest version is successful, becomes important for the intended customer.

And at the end of the day, designers must deliver what their customer wants. So, if you were asked, based on the Pre-Fall collections of these two remarkable designers, whose customer are you?  Lim's or Wang's?