Friday, January 25, 2013

Talking Labels: Louis Vuitton Fall WInter 2013-2014 Men's Ready to Wear

Here are a few fashion facts.

  • Unless you are into a designer like Rick Owens or a label like Theater, chances are your fashion options are permutations of the pant, shirt, vest, blazer, suit, tux, t-shirt, jeans, belt and so on. Sure the cut may change a little, and the fabrics will change with the season, but overall menswear doesn't sell well when it gets too fashion forward.  
  • Luxury brands don't necessarily mean better design or quality.

So here we are with LV, that appears to be trying to be different, while keeping to what the market will buy.

The recent showing of FW 2013/2014 Men's RTW had its followers flying to distant mountains in the Himalayas.  LV's men's style director Kim Jones apparently went there to get some inspiration and came back with ponchos and parkas and mountain climbing accessories and details, all stamped with the LV logo for good measure (and price point).
Comparing the last collection from the same season, the pattern is similar.  Muted tones. Oversized proportions. Jackets and coats belted at the waist.

Looking at the positives:

The collection has sharp contrasts between faux ruggedness and full on luxe.  On one hand you get a sense of function in the clothes, and on the other hand, there are pieces which seem to belong in a gentleman's club.
Function
Gentleman's Club
This season has LV incorporating animal prints into its menswear, though not in a Cavalli sort of way. It is more subtle and subdued. (+) The collection also features an Asian-esque print, that either got its inspiration from a Buddhist temple, or some Chinese New Year greeting card. (-)
Meow.
Louis Vuitton really wants to remind everyone that the season of exchanging oranges is upon us. I suppose in the West, it is acceptable to wear something that borders on costume. Indeed, even customers of Hong Kong luxury brand Shanghai Tang tend to be foreigners. Asians would not dream of wearing something that screams old ethnic heritage.

Still, this may be LV's self-justified nod to Asian consumers. Or it may be a move to give Westerners this feeling of empowerment that they can pick up a piece of Asia in a bag or a housecoat. Or perhaps it is meant to strengthen the message that LV is all about voyage voyage.
Chinoiserie Chic in Small Doses
Whatever it may be, in small doses the look may still be somewhat acceptable. But even a non-fashion insider who watches Project Runway will know, 'matchy matchy' is just SO Cannot Cannot.
Too Much Lah.
And when 'matchy matchy' goes over the top...to toe, it becomes an eyesore than not even the LV logo can save. (Where is the logo anyway? Can you find it in the print?) Someone in the design room did not tell the powers that be that too much of a good thing is just Gong Xi Fa Cai on steroids.
Really?
Don't get me wrong. I respect Louis Vuitton's history and power position in the industry. I just think that if I wanted to rough it out in the mountains in the Himalayas, I would get a real poncho for a fraction of the cost and I wouldn't mind if it rips during the journey. And if I wanted a belt made of cord and a utility toggle, I would go get the latter from Japanese discount store Daiso for SG$2 and the former from an army supply store. Ta da! A belt like LV's. And if I really wanted to carry a bag that looks like it's made from a carpet with a Chinoi print (AND) wear a matching coat with that, well....mmmm I wouldn't really want to. Moot point.
Maybe LV's loyalists will see this collection as novel and rush out to buy the seriously expensive pieces. I will however venture to guess that once the season is over, they wouldn't be caught dead carrying these key looks. Then again, if they can afford to buy them to begin with, they wouldn't care!
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