IQ 101: The Stuff in Your Stuff | PARABENS

I hope some if not all of you have gone through your medicine cabinets, kitchens and beauty products to see if your stuff has Triclosan.

This is part 2 in our little class about Chemicals of Interest. Again, it is entirely up to you if it is ok or not. This is just information to help you make decisions.

You must have heard about Parabens. To companies that use this, it is simply a preservative to keep the product on the shelf longer. It would be like having preservatives in your favorite drink in the supermarket.

When you look at labels, you'd probably see one or more variation of this. Again, FMCG (Fast Moving Consumer Goods) and beauty product companies will tell you it is safe to use especially when the products contain recommended concentrations. But what if you use many products that contain parabens?  Would it be like having an overdose of salt intake in your overall diet?  

Here are the facts.

• Parabens
• used to prevent the growth of microbes in cosmetic productcan be absorbed through the skin, blood and digestive system
• found in biopsies from breast tumors
• linked to cancer, endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, immunotoxicity, neurotoxicity and skin irritation
• known to disrupt hormone function 
• found in nearly all urine samples from U.S. adults of a variety of ethnic, socioeconomic and geographic backgrounds
• frequently in cosmetics: ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben
• appears in well over 10,000 products 
• appear mostly in personal care products that contain significant amounts of water, such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions and facial and shower cleansers and scrubs
• while concentration limits are recommended for each paraben, these recommendations do not account for the use of multiple parabens in a single product or for exposure to parabens from several products by a single individual. 

Something to note as we move along this series. Just because you spend more money on your product does not mean you are necessarily getting something chemical free.  Here is a sample list of which products contain parabens.

• Guerlain.
• Super Aqua - Day Refreshing Cream
• Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben

• Olay 
• Moisturizing Lotion
• Methylparaben, Propylparaben

• Origins
• Calm to Your Senses, lavender and vanilla Body Cleanser
• Methylparaben, Propylparaben
• Clear Improvement, Charcoal Clay Mask
• Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben

Talking Labels: Alexander Wang vs 3.1 Philip Lim Pre-Fall 2013

Pre-Fall 2013 is interesting.

Collectively, there are a few non-surprises. Lots of sombre tones and blacks, lots of leather and wools. There are also some eye openers, particularly in some color breakaways and prints.

The submissions from a couple of the Asian designers that are the current darlings in the West, also made me raise an eyebrow. Sometimes for good reasons, others because I just did not get it.

Take these two designers for example. Alexander Wang and Philip Lim.  A Parsons dropout, Wang is identified for his 'urban, nonchalant cool' looks or better known as "Model Off Duty". Philip Lim on the other hand, is known for his tailoring and smart and wearable designs.

Both are CFDA winners and it is fair to expect lots season after season.

So let's see. I am just going to pick looks that I like, and looks that made me go hmm.

3.1 Philip Lim

His inspiration this season: Bikers and their Molls.  Er, ok. 

The good -

I love a good dress, especially if it is in a nude color. Make it in buttery leather, and it is even better than cheesecake. I love this from him. Clean, impeccable with an edge, especially when partnered with Julia Roberts Pretty Woman Thigh High Boots from the Strip. A good girl can be bad at the same time.

The oversized jacket IS a little voluminous for the model, yes. What I do appreciate is the injection of a beautiful color in a season that is traditionally muted. Also, the printed detail on the sleeves adds yet another visual break from what could have been otherwise a single blob of blue. The leather patch skinny pant is a real move away from the sweetness Lim has been associated with but the edginess is keeps it young and modern.

Channeling Joan Jett and Suzi Quatro, this leather vest truly rocks. There is nothing worse than a leather vest that cuts away from the body, and this anything but. I also like the proportion of the vest when worn with the top and skirt as styled. There is cohesion in the entire ensemble, which works whether as separates or as a total look.

The Bad: 

Prints in Pre-Fall, great. These, not so great. I thought a designer is supposed to flatter the human form, not distort it. The leopard sweater disaster not only makes the model look huge, the color toning of the print gave her these white (wide) hips. The tonal error continues in the second look, and this time, not even leather can save the design.

I get it. Lim is known for his sweaters. But does any woman want to have a blue shrug sewn into a slouchy brown base? And then pair that with matchy matchy shorts with giant upturn cuffs. Perhaps Lim wanted his clients to lose their gender identity, but I suspect women would not be rushing to the stores to get this look.

The O.M.G:

For this section I will leave it to you to see for yourself and decide if this is a ALAMAK moment. I will however leave perhaps one or two words to express my...mmm...surprise.

Auntie Go to Office Much?

Good Print Gone Bad

Burberry Much? (But not in a good Chris Bailey way)

Alexander Wang

The Good:

If you are going to get a slate grey jacket, get this one. Sure it isn't slim and fitted but styled correctly, as shown above, the result is nothing short of gorg. The jacket skims right above the buttocks and if you aren't wearing a longer blouse or top inside, this length will give you some visual trickery as it cheats the eye into believing that you've had a butt lift and it also gives you a longer leg. Worn with a calf length pant that mimics the flare silhouette of the jacket, the outcome is completely modern, and it gives you the perfect opportunity to show off those expensive shoes. Masculinity is quite the theme for Pre-Fall and Wang has captured this without reducing women to a season of testosterone.

I am a little torn about this one.  On one hand I like the ombre effect on the shorts. The length above the knee is also flattering. Going grey top to bottom sends me to snoozeville. Having said that, I do like the androgynous quality of this look. It is almost like the girl just raided her guy or gay friend's closet and pulled together an easy stylish look. I think it is the effortless simplicity that is caught my eye. Urban chic comes to mind.

It is probably unintentional, and I can be justifiably accused of being geographical about it, but I equated the wrap skirt here as Asian-esque. Again probably unintended, but the leather waist band / belt reminds me of an obi belt. I like that a wrap skirt, like its big sister the wrap dress, is so versatile and can be worn with different separates and accessories to change its feel and perception. (See second and third pictures)

I have been fortunate to have worked with talented architects. We always try to balance out form and function, while also breaking the visual line. Wang successfully introduced these elements into this look. Sharp angular lines force the eye to dissect the body, and draw the attention away from areas you may want people to avoid. It is almost like a Star Wars Empire Officer's uniform: strict and utilitarian. If this is Wang's revision of a military look, sign me up. It is truly fashion forward.

You probably can guess by now which designer I am leaning towards. This does not diminish anyone's work. However, I do think that designers can have hits and misses in any one season. Perhaps also, some herrings are placed in the collection for press buzz. And if brand image is vital, then reworking staples like sweaters, regardless of whether the newest version is successful, becomes important for the intended customer.

And at the end of the day, designers must deliver what their customer wants. So, if you were asked, based on the Pre-Fall collections of these two remarkable designers, whose customer are you?  Lim's or Wang's?

IQ 101: The Stuff In Your Stuff

I wanted the first post of 2013 to be empowering and educational.  So on Day 1 of the new year I am launching an occasional Style IQ series that is meant to help you figure things out in the world of fashion and beauty.

So here goes.  

The great thing about fashion and beauty is that everyone is able to choose how they want to express themselves. The options are all out there.  And with greater consumer education, you can do what works for you.

In that spirit, I want to start a little occasional series to inform everyone about the products that they buy. The more they know, the better choices they make for themselves. I am not subscribing to any one direction nor am I an advocate. Some of the topics will interest some, and not others.

So let's start off with a story that made some waves at the end of 2012.

"There's lead acetate in hair dyes, lead in lipsticks, formaldehyde and 1, 4-dioxane in baby shampoos and other shampoos."


That was the claim in a syndicated news report.

It is fairly easy to google the ingredients in your favorite shampoo or face powder and find information regarding them. Some studies will say that the amount of chemicals contained in a product is safe for human use. Others will say prolonged and repeated exposure (considering these chemicals are found in most drugstore and even name brand products), will do long term harm.

Whatever it is, what I know is that while reading a list of chemicals may horrify for a moment, it is hard for the average consumer to really internalize them.

So let's do things one by one. Over time I will introduce other common ingredients. All you have to do is to check the name to the product in your home. And you decide if it works for you.

• Triclosan
• A common antimicrobial agent that accumulates in our bodies
• Linked to hormone disruption and the emergence of bacteria resistant to antibiotics and antibacterial products. 
• Impacts the environment, ending up in lakes, rivers and other water sources, where it is toxic to aquatic life.
• Found in antibacterial soaps and detergents, deodorants, toothpastes, cosmetics, fabrics and plastics, kitchen cutting boards, shoes.
• Proved to be both dangerous and unnecessary—in 2005, the FDA found no evidence that antibacterial washes containing triclosan were superior to plain soap and water for protecting consumers from bacteria.
• It is an endocrine disruptor and impacts thyroid function and thyroid homeostasis. 
• It's mode of action is similar to antibiotics, and there are concerns that bacteria that become resistant to triclosan will also become resistant to antibiotics.
• Studies have found concentrations of triclosan in three out of five human milk samples as a result of exposure through personal care products containing triclosan. 
• Triclosan has also been found in umbilical cord blood of infants. These results raise concerns for the developing fetus during vulnerable periods of development, and make the bioaccumulative and endocrine-disruptive potential of triclosan more even more alarming.

Eye Candy: Fair Game on Asia's Next Top Model?

BuhBye Girlfriend!

I held off from writing about last week's episode of Asia's Next Top Model because I knew it would have some kind of link to this week's ep.

The Vietnamese contestant was chastised by multi tasking judge Daniel Boey for not asking questions to the photographer when she did not understand what was being required from her.

Apparently it was a surprise to the judging panel when it was revealed that she had been struggling to understand the challenges since day one of the competition.  It took guest judge Jeannie Mai, Vietnamese American Fashion Expert from the Style Network to help figure this out on air.

She got axed from the show.

Here is the thing.

English is not the main language in Vietnam.  Having done business there, I can testify to that. And while English may be spoken widely in many Asian countries, it is still not considered to be mother tongue in this part of the world.

Asia's Next Top Model was pulling contestants from everywhere in Asia. It is my opinion that it is unrealistic to expect every model to be fluent and confident in the language. In fact, the show's producers should have prepared for this eventuality.

Perhaps casting Pan Asians that spoke with an American, Aussie, or British accent saved them to some degree. But do these Pan Asians really represent the beauties you may find on the streets of the cities in Asia? The majority of Asian women here do not have Ang Mo parents.

The Vietnamese contestant, together with a few others like the one from Malaysia and Nepal are representative of their heritage and ethnicity, something I would like to see more of in the modeling industry. It is not that I am opposed to Pan Asian beauty, I just think that there must be greater and wider representation of  Asian beauty.

So if this means working with people who may have the goods but not the tongue, then so be it.

The producers of the show may argue that the Vietnamese contestant did not have the goods. But (and here is the possible link between eps) if you were to look at the latest episode, perhaps her departure was a means to an end.  The Tresemme challenge had the girls filming a TVC.  In English.

Ta da.

It would be reasonable to wonder if the Vietnamese contestant would have suffered royally with the challenge. Mercy killing much?

The producers of the show had an excellent opportunity to showcase different definitions of Asian beauty based on their homeland.  But to do that, they had to be prepared to handle the cultural and language differences too.  I don't think they did a great job in this regard.

On the upside, Boey is proving to be watchable. Even if you don't agree with his methods or his opinions, the fact is he does provide ironic humor, and a bite to the show that the girls and the other judges have failed to bring to the table.  I am not pretending to be his cheerleader, but I do believe that you cannot fake passion.  Boey is clearly passionate about the work. And quite honestly, some of his comments are just so to the point and clearly based on industry experience that you have to accept them to be true. His potential to be a Simon Cowell-esque type character is pretty good so far.

One just hopes, that in the absence of translators, the girls who aren't great at English, like the Thai girl, can truly understand his comments to benefit from them! Let's hope she isn't next to get axed!

Eye Candy: Miss Universe 2012 and the Asian Dilemma

Last night, Miss USA was crowned Miss Universe 2012, and an uproar ensued regarding how Miss Philippines was robbed of the title.

Granted it is true that Miss Philippines had the best response during the question and answer round.  Was she truly Top 5 caliber and was she the best candidate among the other Asian girls?

From a Western eye perhaps.  She is definitely pretty.  She has the traditional features of an Asian woman, the type Mattel would use to create an Asian Barbie prototype.  Look at the picture below. She really does look like a Barbie doll and I mean that in a good way.

Still, Western beauty judges have always had a very skewed eye when it comes to pageants. The girls from the Eastern European and Latin countries tend to fare better in the rankings. But when it comes to Asian contenders, the concept of Asian beauty still seems to be entrenched in Pinkerton's view. Pan Asians, hot in Asia, don't seem to do as well as those with 'traditional' features.

Perhaps the judges may have been thinking: if they want someone with Caucasian features, they might as well select a Caucasian contestant.

If that is true, then the perception is too narrow.  Asian women are no longer defined by small eyes and flat hair.  Pageant judges need to widen their scope and really understand the complexities in the concept of beauty in Asia if Asian contestants are going to even have a chance in future.

In the meantime, take a look at these Asian Miss Universe contestants and ask: shouldn't the brouhaha have been more over the lack of Asian finalists?

Miss Indonesia 2012 Maria Selena

Miss Singapore 2012  Lynn Tan

Miss Thailand 2012 Farida Waller

Miss Malaysia 2012 Kimberley Leggett

Miss Korea 2012 Lee Sung-hye

Miss Philippines 2012 Janine Tugonon

Partygram!: Samantha Thavasa in Velvet Underground

It was like Super Junior just landed in Velvet Underground Singapore.

Velvet Underground

Imagine walking into a room full of late teens to twenty something girls, most of whom were dressed very kawaii. Being blonde and male, I certainly felt like I was entering the twilight zone. But hey, I believe fashion is democratic and everyone has a right to expressing themselves through style. So, it was time to pull up the socks and go bravely into uncharted territory!

Guess who was trying to be Kawaii

The event was an anniversary celebration of Japanese handbag brand, Samantha Thavasa. Considering the target market, the event was successful in galvanizing the right crowd. For those of you who may not be in this category, here is a little quick info bite:

• 1994 founded by Mr Kazu Terada in Tokyo
• 2000 opened up NY operations
• 2004 deluxe line launched
• 2005 Listed on Tokyo Stock Exchange
• 2006 first NYC store opened / men's line launched
• 2006 Tinsley Mortimer chosen to co-brand a new line of handbags
• Other celebs: Beyonce / Solange, Nicky Hilton, Jlo, Victoria Beckham, Taylor Momsen, Lee Byung Hun for jewelry line, Miranda Kerr
• In Singapore, the brand is jointly brought in by luxury retailer Tyan and the principal in Japan.

The event was interesting for me.

For one thing, the hospitality from the Tyan staffers was unexpectedly warm. Usually, events such as these are friendly, but much of the attention is reserved for media and business partners. I was pleasantly surprised that the staff made everyone feel included. From the reception desk and right into the show. Everyone seemed genuinely happy you came.

Sweet Swag

Guests were given drink coupons and a swag bag. Inside there were some Samantha Thavasa branded donuts and discount voucher.  

Host Stephanie Carrington

When I arrived, the Velvet door guards complimented my Tiffany necklace. Good start I thought. Host Stephanie Carrington was taking pictures in front of the brand wall. After being escorted inside, a Tyan staffer enthusiastically encouraged me to enjoy the show. Again, she had no clue about my background. The sincerity in welcoming everyone regardless of their titles was very, very appreciated, especially after my last little soiree at a (koff koff) atelier.

Packed with young ladies

Inside, finger food was passed around on trays by waiters. Drinks were ordered at the bar. And surprisingly, alcohol was also offered. 

What was also nice: the show was not overly delayed, unlike other fashion events where late is considered normal.

Cute Girly Bags

Intentionally, the models from last night's presentation were Eastern Europeans (no surprises there since the brand consciously positions itself as Western regardless of origin).  Styled by Uber fashion veterans Vik Lim and Lionel Lim (no relation), the Vivien Westwood ensembles were paired off with appropriate Samantha Thavasa bags. Hair was by Salon B who followed the direction of street casual to a tee. The hair was realistically urban, exactly the kind of look that would appeal to the customers of the brand.

Mimicking mum's or big sister's luxury brand bags

It was not hard to see why the bags have so much appeal to this group. If your market is Hermes, the cute, pastel colored bags with Mickey and Minnie Mouse hanging on them may not be for you.

Mickey and Minnie licensed products

The brand does however have sophisticated designs in its line. In fact, some of them seemed inspired by the iconic lines of other luxury brands.

Everything went on almost without any hiccups...until everyone heard gasps in front of the stage. A young guest was lying face down, behind me actually. I was taken aback and tried to help her get up. But you know how a cat lowers its center of gravity to make itself heavy if it didn't want to be picked up. Well...

There was some commotion that even the models and the host on stage were ignored for a short while. Eventually, the young lady was helped out of the club. Later we learned that she was not used to alcohol and her friend got her to down vodka. She paid for that error in trusting that friend with a broken tooth and a state of shock, not to mention the honor of being the unexpected center of attraction!

Again, and this is a testament to Tyan, I learned that they were going to send the lady home. Kudos to the staff and management of the group. They really do take care of their customers, above and beyond the call of duty.

Lucky Draw Winner, and no this isn't the guy

The event closed with a lucky draw giveaway of three bags. It was really cute that the first winner, out of the sea of salivating girls, was a guy! 

Overall, for someone who thought he took a wrong turn when he arrived at the event, I am happy to say I like what the brand is about, where it came from and where it is going. 

Samantha Thavasa is like a bridge label. It transitions a girl from being a high school kid that carries backpacks to a young woman who wants to be a little more grown up without losing her youthfulness. And filling that gap that exists below high end luxury brands like Gucci and Dior is so necessary.

Additional pictures courtesy of Salon B