Talking Labels: Louis Vuitton Fall WInter 2013-2014 Men's Ready to Wear

Here are a few fashion facts.

• Unless you are into a designer like Rick Owens or a label like Theater, chances are your fashion options are permutations of the pant, shirt, vest, blazer, suit, tux, t-shirt, jeans, belt and so on. Sure the cut may change a little, and the fabrics will change with the season, but overall menswear doesn't sell well when it gets too fashion forward.  

• Luxury brands don't necessarily mean better design or quality.

So here we are with LV, that appears to be trying to be different, while keeping to what the market will buy.

The recent showing of FW 2013/2014 Men's RTW had its followers flying to distant mountains in the Himalayas.  LV's men's style director Kim Jones apparently went there to get some inspiration and came back with ponchos and parkas and mountain climbing accessories and details, all stamped with the LV logo for good measure (and price point).

Comparing the last collection from the same season, the pattern is similar.  Muted tones. Oversized proportions. Jackets and coats belted at the waist.

Looking at the positives:

The collection has sharp contrasts between faux ruggedness and full on luxe.  On one hand you get a sense of function in the clothes, and on the other hand, there are pieces which seem to belong in a gentleman's club.

Function

Gentleman's Club

This season has LV incorporating animal prints into its menswear, though not in a Cavalli sort of way. It is more subtle and subdued. (+) The collection also features an Asian-esque print, that either got its inspiration from a Buddhist temple, or some Chinese New Year greeting card. (-)

Meow.

Louis Vuitton really wants to remind everyone that the season of exchanging oranges is upon us. I suppose in the West, it is acceptable to wear something that borders on costume. Indeed, even customers of Hong Kong luxury brand Shanghai Tang tend to be foreigners. Asians would not dream of wearing something that screams old ethnic heritage.

Still, this may be LV's self-justified nod to Asian consumers. Or it may be a move to give Westerners this feeling of empowerment that they can pick up a piece of Asia in a bag or a housecoat. Or perhaps it is meant to strengthen the message that LV is all about voyage voyage.

Chinoiserie Chic in Small Doses

Whatever it may be, in small doses the look may still be somewhat acceptable. But even a non-fashion insider who watches Project Runway will know, 'matchy matchy' is just SO Cannot Cannot.

Too Much Lah.

And when 'matchy matchy' goes over the top...to toe, it becomes an eyesore than not even the LV logo can save. (Where is the logo anyway? Can you find it in the print?) Someone in the design room did not tell the powers that be that too much of a good thing is just Gong Xi Fa Cai on steroids.

Really?

Don't get me wrong. I respect Louis Vuitton's history and power position in the industry. I just think that if I wanted to rough it out in the mountains in the Himalayas, I would get a real poncho for a fraction of the cost and I wouldn't mind if it rips during the journey. And if I wanted a belt made of cord and a utility toggle, I would go get the latter from Japanese discount store Daiso for SG$2 and the former from an army supply store. Ta da! A belt like LV's. And if I really wanted to carry a bag that looks like it's made from a carpet with a Chinoi print (AND) wear a matching coat with that, well....mmmm I wouldn't really want to. Moot point.

Maybe LV's loyalists will see this collection as novel and rush out to buy the seriously expensive pieces. I will however venture to guess that once the season is over, they wouldn't be caught dead carrying these key looks. Then again, if they can afford to buy them to begin with, they wouldn't care!

Talking Labels: Zang Toi for Harper's Bazaar Malaysia

I have great respect for this talent.

He is a kampung boy made good in the Big Apple. In a world where people become rich and famous because they are famous and/or rich, his success is well deserved for his gift for glamour and staying power. Over twenty years of hard work, the dream is still alive.

I believe in the Law of Attraction so I am putting it out there that it would be an honor to interview him, and perhaps on my return to New York, visit his atelier and who knows, his gorgeous Upper East Side home.  I will bring Satay and my own Thai Green Curry!

In the meantime, he will be featured in Harper's Bazaar Malaysia's 10th Anniversary Edition. It is incredibly nice that he still supports home town media. And if the initial pictures popping up on twitter are anything to go by, that anniversary issue will be da bomb! 

Look out for it!

For more on House of Toi, click here.

On a break from the shoot

All pictures © Zang Toi

Opinion: What Not To Wear If You Are An Anti-Gay Pastor

OK.

I am not going to politicize my Style Journal.

I have always said: I want my blog to be a positive thing. Even if on the surface, it doesn't look like it. I believe you can always learn through every experience. You know, don't judge a coat by its lapels, look at the label and it could be Burberry.

So, Anti-Gay Pastor Lawrence Khong from Faith Community Baptist Church in Singapore is dressing up for his crusade. Anyone who has kept with the news knows that he raised a ruckus by involving a senior Singaporean politician in his tirades against gay people.

Basically, he wants the Government not to repeal an ancient  law inherited from British colonial times that criminalizes sex between men. This law was raised during the Human Rights Commission inquiry into Singapore's human rights ranking.  Singapore has denied enforcing it, but has also refused to repeal it.

Thanks to haters like the Pastor.

I do not want to publicize his words of hate, but it is important to place things in their proper context. You can read his statements here:
WTF

Well, he is of course entitled to his opinions. Even though, as a man of God, it is love he should be expressing, and not encourage his flock to hate.  That is my opinion.

It is also my opinion that I think he is offensive on another level. His fashion sense totally hurts my eyes. He needs a makeover and I am sure I can help him out with that.

Tolong Lah Mister. Leather? Bondage? Really? You sure you are not 'family'?

What he looks like. But without the muscles and the good looks.

Seriously, Mr Khong. The Mad Max look is not only unbecoming for a pastor, it is also SOOOOOO 80's.

Why don't you learn from the ex-CEO of the SMRT who was carried into a party by a few hunks, dressed as Cleopatra? Aiyoh mister, pictures online live FOREVER laaaaaahhhhh. Roll eyeballs.

Stuff Envy: Prabal Gurung for Target!

FEBRUARY 10 PEOPLE!

Mark that date down because fashion is about to get another dose of democracy. High fashion is reaching the masses once again with a collaboration so exciting it is making me salivate. The last time this sort of thing really got me going was Missoni's deal with Target, and Versace's collection for H&M.

Frankly, those collaborations seemed a tad mmmmm compromised. When you look at the products, you get a sense that they were licensed versions rather than conceptualized by the in house team. Of course this is probably furthest from the truth, and their respective design teams had to work on strict price points and budgets. Still, some of the products looked like they were Made In China bags with the brand just slapped on for good measure (think Givenchy for Singapore Airlines and you will get the drift).

Prabal Gurung's collection however, is divine. At least in pictures. It is not the first time he has worked with Target. This time though, he is headlining the marquee.

80+ pieces.  The most expensive item is a very pocketbook friendly US$199. Most items are below US$50.  I am already scheming to have the products shipped over. This is one of those many times fashion forward guys would look at their female friends and envy at how lucky they are to be able to buy treasures such as these.

Take a look!

I am a shoes and bags person.

Guilty. Proud of it. Eyeball my shoe closet and please wipe your mouth liquids on the floor as you leave.

PG's collection for Target makes you want to do a Shatzie from the classic New York movie, 'How to Marry a Millionaire'.

"I'll take that and that, and that and that and that, and that and that. And charge it please."

Take a look:

Life can be so unfair for guys, fashion wise. Especially if you look at the BAGS!

PG is hot hot hot in fashion right now. And it helps that he is so easy on the eyes.  Woof!

Globally, he has been lauded as 'Singapore Born', which makes me proud, but we all know his design genius is not the result of being born or even being in this little red dot (pun intended). Still, international media has tied his name to this country of millionaires, and I hope to be one of the first few to welcome him when he opens his first standalone luxe shop in Singapore, hopefully in ION Orchard. Location lah. Very important.

The thing that is so great is that Target has again partnered with an Asian designer (just as they did with Jason Wu), and when a giant retailer does that, it sends a message that design is truly universal and Asian design makes commercial sense.

The next step is for Asian designers who've made it big in the West to get the investment to move East, where serious money can be made, and not just through licensing their lines.

We are waiting Prabal Gurung! Let Asia experience you in a real way and not just via seeing Ellen Degeneres' cousin, Kate Middleton wear your creations!

Click on the Dot to go to the Official Site:

Retail Therapy: Selfridge's Launches Daring New Retail Concept

"Every situation in life is an opportunity to train the mind in awareness and compassion, focus and empathy, calm and clarity. Headspace allows us to be awake to the opportunity."

Are you curious yet?

Better question: Are you a Brand Bitch?

If you are tied to your LV and Gucci logos, this isn't for you.

When Selfridges started operating in 1909, its founder Harry Gordon Selfridge created a Silence Room where shoppers can escape from the noise of the bargains and other shoppers.  This year, the store decided to revive this and extend that message. In an age where we are constantly bombarded with text messages, cell phone calls, facebook pings, twitter tweets, and email tings, this revival is not just quirky, it is downright necessary.

Watch this:

And this:

The Silence Room is a little like the Sound Room London had in Trafalgar Square last summer when I was there, except that instead of being wrapped in an interesting soundtrack, Selfridge's insulated the room to exclude all sound.

The revised version was designed by the acclaimed Alex Cochrane Architects and is more in line with New Age Zen philosophies that is currently trendy worldwide.

Some of the products that were de-branded, and yes there is fashion too

The thing I do particularly like about the campaign is the 'de-branding' aspect of it all. Sure, the guys at the store think that some products don't really need 'branding' since the products are iconic on their own and are instantly recognizable. Estee Lauder's Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizer, Heinz ketchup, Beats Headphones, all have top of mind design that truly don't need any introduction. Indeed, the cheaper products are already sold out.

Even window displays and store bags are not spared

I like the thought behind this. It is a little like how Japanese brand Muji came about years ago. They wanted to remove identifiable logos and just produce high quality functional well designed products.  The irony is, their retail philosophy became a brand itself.

Were brand managers wary of de-branding?

The interesting thing is that the campaign has already drummed up a lot of publicity for its out of the box approach. If you have been to the major retail capitals of the world, you would have noticed that store windows for example are like the covers of magazines. The bigger, more colorful and animated they are, the more stores think customers will be drawn inside. This campaign has shown an alternative approach.

And it really does redefine the term: Retail Therapy.

Is it sustainable? Maybe not. People like their cell phones, their iPads and their brands. To some degree, we have all gotten used to the noise, both visual and aural, of brand marketing. BUY ME! I MAKE YOUR LIFE BETTER!

Still, like a nice yoga sala, it is always good to have a spot you can run to when you do find that it is just too much.

Here's hoping retailers worldwide will pick up this message and create their own headspace.

PS, if anyone is willing to get me the all white BEATS headphones as a gift, I wouldn't turn it down! :-)

More information can be found here:

No Noise at Selfridge's

Eye Candy: Asia's Next Top Model Judges say no to Hong Kong

The intention of this blog is to share.  Whether ideas, opinions, views, thoughts etc.

I didn't have much to say about last week's Asia's Next Top Model, so I didn't say anything.  There was something small but it was not so crucial to run to the keyboards.

This week's episode was predictably saccharine. Now, in case anyone thinks I am against soft programming, I am not. While I still think reality shows thrive on conflict (well, at least in the US), things may function better in Asia sans the grief.

Ya think?

Not much to say about the episode proper except for a few key thoughts.

The judges.

It is not easy to say too much about them because the panel keeps changing. The one constant is Nadya, and perhaps Todd.

Nadya

Nadya has turned out to be quite the zen mother hen (or ZMH as I call it). Calm, cool, tell it like it is but in a spinster school teacher sort of way.  And that is nice. She has shown herself as her own entity. Her own character. And dare I say it, I can't take my eyes off her because the camera loves her at all angles.

Todd.

Todd Anthony Tyler

Todd Todd Todd Todd Todd. I remember him to be a very committed professional when he was a model. He was dedicated and present and took directions well during a shoot. As a photographer, his portfolio is impressive. As a judge, what he says make sense. But as a TV judge, he comes across as a stiff piece of cardboard whose cheekbones don't seem to move much, and whose forehead seems frozen in a single expression. I said it before that he has a vacant look in his eyes. This has not changed. And as much as he shells out advice about being more animated during challenges, he would do well to listen to his own words and remember that this is television. And color and animation works well.

This week's guests judges designer Michael Cinco and the chief editor from Harpers Bazaar Lauren Clarke Jensen were good editions to the panel.

Michael Cinco

For one thing, Michael Cinco is an incredible talent. I think he was quite brave to let his beautiful outfits go underwater for the mermaid shoot. I did not really understand what he meant when he said that one of the contestants was 'impalpable'.  Check the dictionary for the definition and you may also have question marks above your head. I put it down to fashion speak, you know, like calling someone divalicious or 'fierce and love'.

Lauren Clarke Jensen from Harper's Bazaar

LCJ from HB. Interesting. It was like watching Joanna Cole in her first few appearances on national television in the US. You know she is something and really has a lot to offer. But someone didn't tell her to be mindful of her on screen persona.

In fact, with LCJ and Michael AND sadly Nadya, the panel's outfits were all basic black. Nothing wrong with that, but even in editorial shoots, flat black has to be popped with texture and accessories to give the outfits life on camera. Nadya was still ok with the bling on her bod, but the other two...CHILD!

It's not them. Designers and Editors have different objectives in their professions. TV people however, should have taken it upon themselves to say something, to protect the interests of their guests.

Ok, this may not be a popular statement but this is where the panel needs someone like Daniel Boey. Like it or hate it, at least he makes an attempt to dress in an eye catching way for the camera. It reveals a very strategic mind that understands the medium. You may not be able to please everyone. But you can be interesting.

The judging

The elimination of the Hong Kong contestant was surprising. Not because she really was the worse of the bunch. Her send off meant that the show would truly become even more saccharine than ever. One predicts.

The Judged

Frankly, she didn't come across as a bitch. In fact Miss Japan is more the drama queen than she thinks. The producers could have milked the tension between Miss Japan and Miss Hong Kong a little bit more for the sake of the show. What is left now is a bunch of people who look like they belong in a Hello Kitty commercial.

They are the sort of people you would want to know. But to do appointment viewing on television, I am not so sure. I would love to see the ratings results.

You know that little thing that I said was not so crucial before. I guess the latest episode makes it more relevant to raise it now.

I have always cringed when the Playboy ads would come on. Not the cheeky ones in the limo. The ones where there is a static picture and a voice over says:"Want to be at Asia's Next Top Model finale party?".

How many of you go YEAH!!!! to such a boring invitation. They could have hired a better voice over talent whose tone is 'brighter'. Trust someone who has worked with some of the best US based voice over talents, it is worth the effort and expense to get these guys to sell your message.

The relationship between the sponsor (Coty Asia / Playboy fragrances) and ANTM (Asia) is not exactly organic. The show seems to be trying to get the next high fashion model that won't embarrass the franchise when she goes to London and Europe. Yet the product is not exactly high fashion and is sold in drugstores. Price point: very accessible. This ain't Dior's Poison honey.

Asia General Manager Coty Beauty, Fons Hautkamp

Bottom line though is...well the bottom line matters. And if Coty wants the brand association and coughs up enough cash to sustain the production, that may be the definition of organic for the show's producers.

Anyway the show is coming to an end soon. Usually at this stage of the competition, the girls would be jetted off to some exotic location to finish off the season. Maybe that will come with the top three.

So who do you think will be on top?

IQ 101: The Stuff in Your Stuff | PARABENS

I hope some if not all of you have gone through your medicine cabinets, kitchens and beauty products to see if your stuff has Triclosan.

This is part 2 in our little class about Chemicals of Interest. Again, it is entirely up to you if it is ok or not. This is just information to help you make decisions.

You must have heard about Parabens. To companies that use this, it is simply a preservative to keep the product on the shelf longer. It would be like having preservatives in your favorite drink in the supermarket.

When you look at labels, you'd probably see one or more variation of this. Again, FMCG (Fast Moving Consumer Goods) and beauty product companies will tell you it is safe to use especially when the products contain recommended concentrations. But what if you use many products that contain parabens?  Would it be like having an overdose of salt intake in your overall diet?  

Here are the facts.

• Parabens
• used to prevent the growth of microbes in cosmetic productcan be absorbed through the skin, blood and digestive system
• found in biopsies from breast tumors
• linked to cancer, endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, immunotoxicity, neurotoxicity and skin irritation
• known to disrupt hormone function 
• found in nearly all urine samples from U.S. adults of a variety of ethnic, socioeconomic and geographic backgrounds
• frequently in cosmetics: ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben
• appears in well over 10,000 products 
• appear mostly in personal care products that contain significant amounts of water, such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions and facial and shower cleansers and scrubs
• while concentration limits are recommended for each paraben, these recommendations do not account for the use of multiple parabens in a single product or for exposure to parabens from several products by a single individual. 

Something to note as we move along this series. Just because you spend more money on your product does not mean you are necessarily getting something chemical free.  Here is a sample list of which products contain parabens.

• Guerlain.
• Super Aqua - Day Refreshing Cream
• Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben

• Olay 
• Moisturizing Lotion
• Methylparaben, Propylparaben

• Origins
• Calm to Your Senses, lavender and vanilla Body Cleanser
• Methylparaben, Propylparaben
• Clear Improvement, Charcoal Clay Mask
• Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben