Eye Candy: Fair Game on Asia's Next Top Model?

BuhBye Girlfriend!

I held off from writing about last week's episode of Asia's Next Top Model because I knew it would have some kind of link to this week's ep.

The Vietnamese contestant was chastised by multi tasking judge Daniel Boey for not asking questions to the photographer when she did not understand what was being required from her.

Apparently it was a surprise to the judging panel when it was revealed that she had been struggling to understand the challenges since day one of the competition.  It took guest judge Jeannie Mai, Vietnamese American Fashion Expert from the Style Network to help figure this out on air.

She got axed from the show.

Here is the thing.

English is not the main language in Vietnam.  Having done business there, I can testify to that. And while English may be spoken widely in many Asian countries, it is still not considered to be mother tongue in this part of the world.

Asia's Next Top Model was pulling contestants from everywhere in Asia. It is my opinion that it is unrealistic to expect every model to be fluent and confident in the language. In fact, the show's producers should have prepared for this eventuality.

Perhaps casting Pan Asians that spoke with an American, Aussie, or British accent saved them to some degree. But do these Pan Asians really represent the beauties you may find on the streets of the cities in Asia? The majority of Asian women here do not have Ang Mo parents.

The Vietnamese contestant, together with a few others like the one from Malaysia and Nepal are representative of their heritage and ethnicity, something I would like to see more of in the modeling industry. It is not that I am opposed to Pan Asian beauty, I just think that there must be greater and wider representation of  Asian beauty.

So if this means working with people who may have the goods but not the tongue, then so be it.

The producers of the show may argue that the Vietnamese contestant did not have the goods. But (and here is the possible link between eps) if you were to look at the latest episode, perhaps her departure was a means to an end.  The Tresemme challenge had the girls filming a TVC.  In English.

Ta da.

It would be reasonable to wonder if the Vietnamese contestant would have suffered royally with the challenge. Mercy killing much?

The producers of the show had an excellent opportunity to showcase different definitions of Asian beauty based on their homeland.  But to do that, they had to be prepared to handle the cultural and language differences too.  I don't think they did a great job in this regard.

On the upside, Boey is proving to be watchable. Even if you don't agree with his methods or his opinions, the fact is he does provide ironic humor, and a bite to the show that the girls and the other judges have failed to bring to the table.  I am not pretending to be his cheerleader, but I do believe that you cannot fake passion.  Boey is clearly passionate about the work. And quite honestly, some of his comments are just so to the point and clearly based on industry experience that you have to accept them to be true. His potential to be a Simon Cowell-esque type character is pretty good so far.

One just hopes, that in the absence of translators, the girls who aren't great at English, like the Thai girl, can truly understand his comments to benefit from them! Let's hope she isn't next to get axed!

Eye Candy: Miss Universe 2012 and the Asian Dilemma

Last night, Miss USA was crowned Miss Universe 2012, and an uproar ensued regarding how Miss Philippines was robbed of the title.

Granted it is true that Miss Philippines had the best response during the question and answer round.  Was she truly Top 5 caliber and was she the best candidate among the other Asian girls?

From a Western eye perhaps.  She is definitely pretty.  She has the traditional features of an Asian woman, the type Mattel would use to create an Asian Barbie prototype.  Look at the picture below. She really does look like a Barbie doll and I mean that in a good way.

Still, Western beauty judges have always had a very skewed eye when it comes to pageants. The girls from the Eastern European and Latin countries tend to fare better in the rankings. But when it comes to Asian contenders, the concept of Asian beauty still seems to be entrenched in Pinkerton's view. Pan Asians, hot in Asia, don't seem to do as well as those with 'traditional' features.

Perhaps the judges may have been thinking: if they want someone with Caucasian features, they might as well select a Caucasian contestant.

If that is true, then the perception is too narrow.  Asian women are no longer defined by small eyes and flat hair.  Pageant judges need to widen their scope and really understand the complexities in the concept of beauty in Asia if Asian contestants are going to even have a chance in future.

In the meantime, take a look at these Asian Miss Universe contestants and ask: shouldn't the brouhaha have been more over the lack of Asian finalists?

Miss Indonesia 2012 Maria Selena

Miss Singapore 2012  Lynn Tan

Miss Thailand 2012 Farida Waller

Miss Malaysia 2012 Kimberley Leggett

Miss Korea 2012 Lee Sung-hye

Miss Philippines 2012 Janine Tugonon

Partygram!: Samantha Thavasa in Velvet Underground

It was like Super Junior just landed in Velvet Underground Singapore.

Velvet Underground

Imagine walking into a room full of late teens to twenty something girls, most of whom were dressed very kawaii. Being blonde and male, I certainly felt like I was entering the twilight zone. But hey, I believe fashion is democratic and everyone has a right to expressing themselves through style. So, it was time to pull up the socks and go bravely into uncharted territory!

Guess who was trying to be Kawaii

The event was an anniversary celebration of Japanese handbag brand, Samantha Thavasa. Considering the target market, the event was successful in galvanizing the right crowd. For those of you who may not be in this category, here is a little quick info bite:

• 1994 founded by Mr Kazu Terada in Tokyo
• 2000 opened up NY operations
• 2004 deluxe line launched
• 2005 Listed on Tokyo Stock Exchange
• 2006 first NYC store opened / men's line launched
• 2006 Tinsley Mortimer chosen to co-brand a new line of handbags
• Other celebs: Beyonce / Solange, Nicky Hilton, Jlo, Victoria Beckham, Taylor Momsen, Lee Byung Hun for jewelry line, Miranda Kerr
• In Singapore, the brand is jointly brought in by luxury retailer Tyan and the principal in Japan.

The event was interesting for me.

For one thing, the hospitality from the Tyan staffers was unexpectedly warm. Usually, events such as these are friendly, but much of the attention is reserved for media and business partners. I was pleasantly surprised that the staff made everyone feel included. From the reception desk and right into the show. Everyone seemed genuinely happy you came.

Sweet Swag

Guests were given drink coupons and a swag bag. Inside there were some Samantha Thavasa branded donuts and discount voucher.  

Host Stephanie Carrington

When I arrived, the Velvet door guards complimented my Tiffany necklace. Good start I thought. Host Stephanie Carrington was taking pictures in front of the brand wall. After being escorted inside, a Tyan staffer enthusiastically encouraged me to enjoy the show. Again, she had no clue about my background. The sincerity in welcoming everyone regardless of their titles was very, very appreciated, especially after my last little soiree at a (koff koff) atelier.

Packed with young ladies

Inside, finger food was passed around on trays by waiters. Drinks were ordered at the bar. And surprisingly, alcohol was also offered. 

What was also nice: the show was not overly delayed, unlike other fashion events where late is considered normal.

Cute Girly Bags

Intentionally, the models from last night's presentation were Eastern Europeans (no surprises there since the brand consciously positions itself as Western regardless of origin).  Styled by Uber fashion veterans Vik Lim and Lionel Lim (no relation), the Vivien Westwood ensembles were paired off with appropriate Samantha Thavasa bags. Hair was by Salon B who followed the direction of street casual to a tee. The hair was realistically urban, exactly the kind of look that would appeal to the customers of the brand.

Mimicking mum's or big sister's luxury brand bags

It was not hard to see why the bags have so much appeal to this group. If your market is Hermes, the cute, pastel colored bags with Mickey and Minnie Mouse hanging on them may not be for you.

Mickey and Minnie licensed products

The brand does however have sophisticated designs in its line. In fact, some of them seemed inspired by the iconic lines of other luxury brands.

Everything went on almost without any hiccups...until everyone heard gasps in front of the stage. A young guest was lying face down, behind me actually. I was taken aback and tried to help her get up. But you know how a cat lowers its center of gravity to make itself heavy if it didn't want to be picked up. Well...

There was some commotion that even the models and the host on stage were ignored for a short while. Eventually, the young lady was helped out of the club. Later we learned that she was not used to alcohol and her friend got her to down vodka. She paid for that error in trusting that friend with a broken tooth and a state of shock, not to mention the honor of being the unexpected center of attraction!

Again, and this is a testament to Tyan, I learned that they were going to send the lady home. Kudos to the staff and management of the group. They really do take care of their customers, above and beyond the call of duty.

Lucky Draw Winner, and no this isn't the guy

The event closed with a lucky draw giveaway of three bags. It was really cute that the first winner, out of the sea of salivating girls, was a guy! 

Overall, for someone who thought he took a wrong turn when he arrived at the event, I am happy to say I like what the brand is about, where it came from and where it is going. 

Samantha Thavasa is like a bridge label. It transitions a girl from being a high school kid that carries backpacks to a young woman who wants to be a little more grown up without losing her youthfulness. And filling that gap that exists below high end luxury brands like Gucci and Dior is so necessary.

Additional pictures courtesy of Salon B

Talking Labels: Prada Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Campaign

• Shot by David Sims
• Black and White
• Four Talents - Harvey Keitel, Benicio del Torro, Dane De Haan, Aaron Taylor - Johnson

Prada posted a 59.5% jump in net profits even with signs of a slowdown in the luxury market.  In fact, its plans to open more stores in China is supported what Patrizio Bertelli, Chief Executive of the company believes to be double digit growth for 2012. As it stands, China sales account for Euro 334.6 million in revenue. Overall, the Asia Pacific market gave Prada its highest growth rate, more than 1/3 of its total net revenue.

My question is then:  Where is that represented in its advertising campaign?  If Asian consumers are important to the bottom line, why is there no cultural customization in Prada's imaging?  Could it be that it feels Asian consumers believe that a campaign fronted by Caucasian men have a higher perceived value than if it has say, actor Chow Yun Fatt as an ambassador?

Eye Candy: Asia's Next Top Model Ep 4

It is my wish that a show belonging to an international franchise does well.

To some degree, Asia's Next Top Model is performing beyond expectations with regards to the culturally customizing the content. Certainly the styling of the challenges gives the show a rich visual that perhaps the other franchises lack. And, as the trailers show, and as host Nadya mentions, friendship exists in the show.

I am all for positive programming. For example, Masterchef Australia is so much more appetizing than its US counterpart simply because the judges don't go out of their way to cut the contestants down the way Gordon Ramsay has been known to do. And the ever pleasant Junior Masterchef Australia, also shown on Star World in Asia, is a ratings winner in Oz.


However, as I mentioned before, reality shows thrive on the push/pull and the tension that exists in front and behind the camera. Audiences need a reason to root for someone.  As they say, there can be no good without evil. Therein lies the importance of casting.

Daniel Boey: OK I admit it, I love his jacket!

The recent episode showed a spark. One of the contestants was having her special time of the month, and did not bring, er, appropriate gear. So judge Daniel Boey, who really should be paid a lot for double dutying so often in the show, said he would yank the statement piece that was allocated to her and give it to someone else 'more deserving'.

It was delicious.

The first real moment that would raise an eyebrow. A potential villain. The poor frail contestant.

Here is the thing though.

Boey openly said the plan was to give one contestant the wow piece.  And as punishment for her grave error, he would give that to someone else.

In the same episode, another contestant said that Boey would usually look at her and compliment her directly to positively reinforce his liking for her.

Collectively, there was a sense of favoritism in the show.

Daniel Boey has earned his chops for sure. Over 20 years in the business, I would count him to be a true fashion expert in the field. He knows what works and what doesn't. He understands the strengths and failings of models.

Certainly, in a real world setting, Boey would be respected by the industry and clients alike for taking a hard stance on models whose behavior could literally affect the outcome of a very expensive production.  

Also, in the real world, some models get the wow piece.  Some others get more work from the show producer because of their personal relationships. And some also get blasted for not being adequately prepared for a show.

But this is not real world. It is reality tv. It is a competition show.

On a show like this, everyone gets an equal shot. And with the same opportunities, it is always appealing to see how contestants maximize the chances and how they progress from ugly duckling to beautiful swan. However, reality tv capitalizes on the human inclination towards taking sides. And so the aspirational aspects of the show must be balanced with the conflicts that can arise from the personalities.

A contestant mucking up an outfit is a money shot. And to get that recorded as footage, takes some manipulation, even if it defies a show producer's natural instinct to protect the sanctity of the clothes that's being paraded.

I doubt that this is really Boey's accountability. He is a very experienced fashion show producer, among other things. And he would function as he normally would in a real world setting. Perhaps the producers need to protect his on screen persona and mould the show a little more carefully. 

The good news: Boey, being as colorful and articulate as he is, is still probably one of the best elements of the show.

Partygram!: Ong Shunmugam S/S 2013 reflections

The Spring Summer 2013 campaign

Survivor Finale.  New York City.  Ong Shunmugam.

What do these three have in common?  On the surface, nothing.

Survivor is a television show that is running into its 26th season.  New York City is, well, New York City; the center of everything.  Ong Shunmugam is a Singaporean fashion label that has just turned two years old.

I attended the anniversary party at the label's 'atelier'.  I have been to ateliers in Paris and met the families of some of the biggest names in fashion.  An 'atelier' to start with, does not belong in a basement level shop in a building in the Central Business District. Perhaps I am being a puritan, but names and titles that do not reflect content, be it of character or profession, is just a meaningless use of language.

Lovely floral display at the atelier

A nice mix of local and western desserts reflecting
the label's philosophy

Mini cupcakes for the fashion elite that
can't handle calories

But names and titles matter in fashion, it would seem.

At the anniversary party, I was lucky.  I bumped into a few interesting people who could hold a conversation beyond Ong Shunmugam's ethnic inspired designs.

One of the things we discussed was about the rise and impact of the blogger. Everyone is a blogger these days.  PR companies love to court them as a very real media outlet. Really.

Granted that I have one, this one you are reading, and another travel related one that you can visit by clicking the link on the right.

Like many other bloggers, I love the industries I write about.  Unlike other bloggers, whose ages may be in their early to mid teens, I am not a newbie and my intentions for writing are different.  I have experienced fashion from the inside, from being a sales associate to designer.  On the fringe,  I have incorporated it into everything I have done, from entertainment to architectural design.  I have traveled the world, met and got acquainted with industry leaders.  My interest is to use this platform to really get into the business of fashion, and not just to splash pictures of runway shows and campaigns.

I am not begrudging these young writers.  They are the next generation of fashion journos, one hopes.  Early exposure and opportunity can only lead to growth.  I am grateful that others have shown me great kindness, when I first started out.

These days though, it has gone beyond validating effort and moulding young minds. Teenagers are being treated as fashion media elite and to some degree, accorded with a slightly false sense of power.  It is reasonable to wonder if this is a smart strategy.

Firstly, their reach depends largely on 6 degrees of separation.  And this usually means that their demographics are within the age ranges of the bloggers themselves.  One wonders what makes PR companies and luxury labels think that 15 year olds or their peers have the spending power to buy that couture outfit.  Yes it is pretty to look at, but isn't the point of media coverage to encourage a call to action, that is, to buy the clothes? The demographics also means the writing style will appeal specifically to that group.  So we aren't talking about Suze Menkes and Tim Blanks level of reporting.  We are talking light hearted banter.  And there is nothing wrong with that, except that labels seeking to do business need their creations to be taken seriously by the buyer and the media and ultimately that sways what happens on the shop floor.

That brings me to New York City.  I was just saying recently that my time in New York was a blur because there was so much living to do.  Any writer will tell you that one can only write authentic stories if one LIVES LIFE.  I would venture a guess that regardless of how matured some teenagers are, their life experience is yet to flourish.

But in fashion, PR companies and labels choose their alliances. They make choices. Just like the contestants on the Survivor Finale that just ended last night.

The expected thing was that the last four strategized and blind sighted each other with the sole purpose to get ahead.  Sometimes it paid off, sometimes not.  And you are off the island.

We talked about strategies at the anniversary party. Through the conversation, I learned that, after being away for so long, fashion is still territorial and it's all about your alliances. Who do you support, who do you hate, who do you gossip about, whose back do you scratch, who do you do business with.  Choosing one side may mean having your access to another blocked.

The designer wondering who the hell
was taking her picture.

It all came to a head when a friend said he would introduce me to the designer.  I had previously tried to contact this designer for this blog, primarily because I wanted to support her Asian centric design aesthetics.  I saw her mixed heritage, her publicity campaign, her products to have a unique story that needed to be told.  I received no reply from the label or the designer.

When I was introduced to her, she was gracious.  When I told her my intentions, she asked me to write to the generic email address, something I told her I had done before twice.  Busted.  She blushed and said she remembered my emails.  But, call it honesty or PR suicide, she said she put them down the priority list (until they disappeared from memory) because, well, she was getting inundated with emails from other media.  And to add salt to injury, she said, if my friend who apparently is somebody was to write her, she would immediately reply.

Nice.

Still, she offered to write me over the weekend to touch base with me.  I have not heard from her since. And this was even though I had sent her a congratulatory note on Saturday.

Truth is, I am not bitter about it.

Even though she had not seen me before, I've been around too long to be bitter.  If you really want to be a media person, and if blogs are true bona fide media outlets now, then you have to suck it up and accept that you win some, and you lose some.  And this is regardless of whether you are established or not.

Of course I want a local label like Ong Shunmugam to make it.  Sure, it has received accolades from Elle Singapore and had a showing in Paris.  But these are early days yet. And the proof is in the pudding, not in the grandiose terms used in its marketing to try and elevate the status of the label before it is even 'there' yet.  Fashion is a journey.  It is who lasts that matters, and you are only as good as your last show, alliance or no alliance.

Yes I know, the designer will be totally upset with this report. And her supporters would be appalled by what seems to be first impressions (although apparently she also dissed yet another person days after at a media event).  Fact is, while I understand the concept of PR suicide, my intentions are never to destroy dreams. If the opinions featured here are not popular, and not taken for what it is, to try and shed light on a different point of view, then so be it. I have not broken any promises to anyone.  My integrity is intact.

Whatever her reasons are for not reverting back, or for dissing people that appear to be 'not important', I am certain they are intended to benefit her business. And I respect that. All too often though, the fashion industry throws its air kisses and make flighty promises they never intend to keep, and all too often, this becomes an expected habit. It is karmic and it doesn't yield any good outcomes. The good news, as in all choices, you can choose to be different.

So, if you scratch beyond the surface, those three things mentioned at the top of the page are somewhat connected.  Ultimately, being a Survivor in the business of fashion, requires a little more wisdom from living life like you would in New York City, isn't that right Ong Shunmugam?

All the best to the label and designer, and I do mean that.

A lovely songstress from Denmark I had the pleasure
of meeting at the event

Sandy Hook

My heart goes out to the families who have lost their loved ones. This must stop.

Eye Candy: Kanye West wears a Skirt!

Not the one he wore at the 12 12 12 concert but you get the idea!

Even if people want to call it a kilt, a skirt is a skirt.

And rapper Kanye West pulled it off handsomely!  At the 12 12 12 Concert currently on in Madison Square Garden, NYC, to benefit Hurricane Sandy survivors, West donned a leather skirt over some skinny jeans, topped with a hoodie.

The black skirt was just above the knees and had great volume and pleating.  Every swing and movement would cause it to swish, as any great skirt should!

West has made great efforts to be accepted as a serious fashion designer with his womenswear label, DW Kanye West.  Launched in 2011, the label received mild to nasty reviews from fashion media.    

Kanye West the Designer at the Fall 2012 show

DW Kanye West Fall 2012

It must have caused a paradigm shift, and a change his is attitudes. If you recall, some of West's past songs are a tad homophobic. I like to think that his foray into high fashion has opened his eyes about the universality of the human existence. And that what is worn outside is just an expression, but does not speak of the totality of the person.

I mean after all, the soft supple leather skirt bears no real reflection to the hard edged, angry rapper image the man possesses. 

FYI though, this isn't the first time he wore skirts at his performances.  And not the only rapper or R&B artiste to do so either....right DIDDY?

Eye Candy: Ailee

Ok so this girl has been around the block a little and some may already know her.  She is a Kpop sensation that you would never guess is actually Korean American.

Some infobits:

• Born in Denver, CO
• Raised in New Jersey
• Studied criminal justice
• Launched a YouTube channel showcasing covers of R&B songs
• Performed on Maury
• Was signed to a NYC based agency before moving to Korea under YMC Entertainment in 2010
• Taken as a 'trainee', mentored by Kpop star Wheesung
• Her performance of Beyonce's Halo broke ground in Korea
• Officially launched as a solo singer in February 2012

This girl has it all.  Looks and talent, in a Korean born industry that is getting more and more prominence internationally.  And the best part is that because she is effectively bilingual, she has even more potential to do crossovers.  

What I do like though is the progression she has made style wise.  Clearly the Kpop image makers know what they are doing.  Seeing her early days in the US and how she is today, you can appreciate the difference between looking good for a Western audience versus looking hot for an Asian one.