Monday, December 17, 2007

Fashion: 2007 Lookback

As the world faced a climate crisis, and everyone was clamping it down to save money and resources, fashion took the opposite direction. Luxury labels went on an upward spiral in the race to have the most expensive item in their catalogue.  

Nicolas Ghesquiere takes the award for most inventive and expensive secondary accessory when he came up with gold leggings that looked like a hot version of King Arthur's armor for Balenciaga's Spring '07.

Here is the question.  At $159,000 a pair, would even Europe's richest run to the shops to buy it?  Would Allan Shwartz copy them?  Allan, for you fashion newbies, is notorious for knocking off designer creations for the Target market. While some may say that it is so offensive (and yes it is btw), imitation the greatest form of flattery.  So if Mr. S does not copy the tights, what does that mean in the real world.

Then again, are we really talking about the real world?  Come on!  It's luxe fashion, targeted at perhaps 10 % or less of the world's population.

Not everyone can afford the Birken with pave diamonds at $148,000. Or the Bottega Veneta for $78,000.  At those prices though, the houses are clearly not trying to sell them to people who travel in coach!  And fyi, both bags sold.

Fashion: 2007 Lookback

The year is coming to a close. And international fashion became even harder to understand for the average consumer, even as it raised its aspirational quotient. 

In the next few entries, let me try to pick out the more whimsical approaches and directions fashion has taken and make sense of the beauty.

Surrealism is certainly not what the average consumer would want to put in their wardrobes.  Nevertheless, it is the art that inspired many houses in 2007.  From Miu Miu's teacup handle-heel shoes to Marc Jacobs' slip on pumps, everyone was going back to the museums to soak in the art vibe from the best of the Surrealists like Dali and Oppenheim.

Some may say that it is a little too yuksome, while others may say fashion is art and mirroring other artforms is what it is about.

I say, if it looks good, wear it!

Beauty: Sarah Jessica Parker - Covet





OK so I know the fragrance has been launched already.  But I just had to put this in.  No fashion blog is complete without SJP.  This commercial is almost right up there with Nicole and Chanel some time back.

The thing about SJP is that she is not only a smart marketeer, she is also very in tune with delivering what the advertizing promises.  So yes, Covet is truly a great follow up to her first fragrance, Lovely. And it is nice to know she follows the television principle of 'Keep It Simple Stupid'.  Every product line she comes up with is branded with single words.  Easy to remember, packaged to be aspirational, price point to please.

Smart woman.  Can't wait for SATC the Movie!

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Fashion: Gay or Asian - Bench Models

Some time ago, a famous magazine had an article that showed asian men in different garb with the title, 'Gay or Asian?'.

That caused an uproar in Asia because it was felt that the stereotypes of Asians were being played up in the West. The insinuation of course is that Asian men are feminine. The whole argument took on another dimension when gay men voiced out concerns that gay = effeminate.

The face remains that Asian men are generally smooth and lack body hair.   It is a historical and geographical thing.  Asian men had no need for natural fur to keep them warm in the winter months.  Does this make them less manly than their Western counterparts?

Certainly, the predominant concept of masculinity has traditionally dictated than Asian men would not be used in male targeted product advertising.  Ironically, this is true even in Asia where foreign and pan Asian models do better business than their local counterparts.

In some countries however, that is changing.  

Filipino based casual wear label, Bench, is one company that not only supports Asian models, but has also made a notorious name for itself by employing some serious male eye candy.

Modeled after Abercrombie and Fitch in the US, Bench is also well known for their underwear collection, and their male dominated fashion shows can be likened to the annual all female Victoria's Secret fashion presentations.

Bench is unabashed about the portrayal of their men.  Overtly sexual, bordering on homoerotic, the shows and photography tend to be almost soft core.  It is with no exaggeration the stuff of wet dreams for both men and dare I say, women.

However it must also be said that the advertizing strategy of Bench undergear celebrates the Asian male physique.  Where the Western stereotype of an Asian male may be the thin and short statured, fair skinned person, the new Asian male is quite the opposite.

Bench has been so successful that their models often go into very successful careers in the media, be it TV or movies.  They become instant household names, not unlike supermodels in the West, and guys like Wendell Ramos and Marc Nelson (currently a contestant on The Amazing Race Asia) gain instant hunk status.  It is also interesting to note that in spite of their erotic pictures, these men have never been labelled 'gay' or 'gay-friendly'.  In fact, Filipino society seems to accept that they are a creative expression of male sexuality.  Curiously though, similar pictures in the West would have gotten the models branded immediately as 'International Male' catalog types, also known as, gay.

The globalization of economies in the past four decades or so has opened up opportunities and access to both diet and exercise.  While lean mass is the rule of thumb, musculature has grown more pronounced.  The old image of the cute submissive boy is being taken over by hunks of burnin' love!

The modern Asian male is coming into his own!

(article copyrighted shah. all rights reserved. video and pictures are properties of Bench.)

Fashion IQ 101: Dress Assistant





So you've been shopping for that office Christmas party, or the family get together? Have you ever found yourself in a position of discovering you bought something that is so similar to something you already own in your wardrobe? Do you even know how many shoes you really have? If you did, it might scare you into buying more (or not).

You know what they say: knowledge is power. So I went out looking for something that can help me figure out my fashion possessions. And I found it!

If you are a Mac user, and have Leapord, Software De Arte has a program that can help you catalogue your stuff. And I mean stuff. Not just clothes, but accessories and shoes as well. The cool thing is that it can be compartmentalized into seasons, so you don't have to view everything at one shot. In fact, you can even group up your clothes according to events for example, letting you see what works best with what, and reminds you of what you may have worn at an event (nothing worse than coming in the same outfit twice!).

The program also works with the Mac's built in i-Sight webcam, so you can take pictures of your clothes on the fly and immediately add them to your collection. And talk about being democratic, the program is good for both men and women.

It isn't perfect by any means, as I would have preferred customizable categories and design templates. Any Stylissimo would want to individualize their stuff! Still, it is the most user friendly and viable product out there. It may not be for everyone, and the cost of roughly USD 20 to buy the license may put some off. But if you want to give it a shot, you can download it and put about twenty of your items in. As I always say, never buy anything without trying first, and always only when there is a returns policy!

Enjoy!





Beauty: Miss Earth 2007 | Manila






Ok someone kill me.


The recently concluded Miss Earth 2007 was a spectacle, but not quite the sort the organizers, Carousel Productions and broadcast network ABS CBN, was hoping for.

Never heard of Miss Earth or the organizers?  That is because they are literally the poorer cousins of the more acclaimed staples in the pageant calenders, Miss Universe and Miss World.
Also, the performance base of the pageant is in Manila, the Philippines.

The premise of the pageant is similar to that of the others.  In an global environment where climate change is a major concern, the issue of self preservation has become trendy.  With MIss Earth, just as Miss World goes by the mantra of Beauty with a Purpose, theirs simply covers the all inclusive objective of saving the planet.

At least that is what the opening number of the 2007 competition would like us to believe.  In what is considered the obligatory stage introductions of pageant contestants to the viewing public and judges, the girls were choreographed to come out wearing yellow plastic tents with slogans like "Use Less Energy" emblazoned on the front.  In seconds, the tents come off to reveal skin tight, skin baring outfits.

Let's see.  Was the plastic used Grade 3?

But looking into the issue at hand more thoroughly, it is ironic that the pageant is a production initiated by the Filipinos.  Why?  It is common knowledge among environmentalists that the Philippines possess such rich eco-diversity. However, it is also well known that they are also guilty of the crime of being the largest destroyer of coral reefs.  Largely due to fishing technique of bombing the seas, as well as the culling of coral for tourism, the Filipino government has hardly implemented any legislation to protect the reefs, which are in serious danger of being wiped out.

Also, Manila is also famous for traffic woes and environmental pollution.  There are no laws to regulate the use of diesel and people use whatever is cheapest, even if it coughs up choking fumes.  Any visitor to the city will also attest that the rivers and sidewalks that snake around it are usually clogged with garbage.   Speaking of which, the infamous Smokey Mountain is something unique to the Philippines.  Basically a mountain of waste and garbage, people make a living by picking up whatever they can to sell from things other people throw away.  The government has tried to stop this form of 'recycling' by attempting to clear the landfills, but the efforts have failed.  It might useful to note that the landfills are ironically located close to the homes of some of the wealthiest Filipinos.

If that isn't bad enough, the production of the pageant itself is quite the joke.  The girls were brought to island locations to show off the tourism (and sponsors) of the country.  However, no mention had been made in terms of efforts to protect these islands from succumbing to de-forestation and development.

The offenses were perpetuated throughout the show.  So much for saving energy, the amount of lights in the show could have lit up a whole village in India.  If the show is about protection, one can question about the organizer's respect for the protection of intellectual property.  The opening song, Real Girl from Mutya and Umbrella from Rihanna were used, remixed.  Now, let me tell you from a position of knowing: unless ABS CBN paid for the rights to use and remix the music, that is actually illegal.  Of course the Philippines is also a major offender when it comes to IP issues.  Finding pirated and illegal copies of first run movies are common place even on street corners.

And how about the judges!  Most in the panel of judges had no real relevance to environmental protection nor, at the very least, beauty.  They included an architect, a guy who runs spas, the regional manager of Korean Air, and the general manager of a hotel, and worse still, the head guy of the Filipino organization that regulates gambling.

Miss Earth, beyond the obvious exploitation of a fashionable subject matter, seems to be a product of corporate business more than of altruism.  And even though the fact that it is Asian organized with the main hosts being Asian, that pride is overshadowed by the farce that is has implicated upon itself.

I guess the final word comes from the market.  Unlike the other pageants with a strong broadcast distribution, the main outlet for Miss Earth is regional cable player, Star World.  So that means only certain countries in Asia and the Middle East will get to view it.

All I can say is, phew.  I think if it was shown in socially conscious Europe, there would be an uproar!

Miss Earth:  get buried in the ground already!



Saturday, December 15, 2007

Beauty: M.A.C. Stylistics



Ok, so I am a big fan of M.A.C.'s couture collections, primarily because they always come up with incredible packaging and products.  This year's collection, called Stylistics, mirror that of last year's gunmetal collection in terms of products offerings.  The mystery powder makes a return, and signature bags and brushes also come in their signature pop retro coverings.  

This year however, M.A.C. has released a new fragrance in a beautiful Venetian looking flacon which is hand blown and refillable, that is set to be an immediate collector's item.  

My verdict:  Get it if you can!  I highly recommend the mystery powder for a start, because the powder is so fine, even more so than their regular powders, that it would feel like silk on your skin.

Also, get the perfume, even if you don't like the scent.  Ok I know that sounds extravagant but the bottle is such an original.  It's design is clean, classic and completely droolicious!  Your hand is going to love holding the shaft, perhaps even more so than...:-)